Freedom
My electric scooter offers freedom from paying for vehicle insurance, freedom from the confining, stifling, interior of my Saturn vehicle, and a complete emancipation from overpriced gas. As I cruise the silent neighborhood streets on my electric scooter, my hair that has escaped from my bright purple helmet, whips through the crisp morning hair like a free spirit.
It’s near the end of August, and the nip in the air warns that fall is approaching. Who cares! Weather is out of my control, and so are the dark rain clouds, threatening above my neighborhood street, the tree-lined Northbrook Drive. I can buy rain gear, I can wear warmer clothes on my commute to work, and I can pretend that the cars zooming by don’t shatter my nerves.
As I ride, the petty annoyance and fears from new experiences, fade, and happy a thought slips in. There is something primal, something close to perfection, about riding free in the fresh morning air. Maybe man is meant to be free to explore the open road, and see the old neighborhood with fresh, curious, eyes. The purchase of my electric bike now offers adventure. Rides on sunny fall days, and a chance to admire the glimmering Pacific Ocean that hugs the nearby Lochside Drive. There is so much of life to explore, nature to drink in, and friendly neighbor streets to cruise along, from the comfort of the black leather seat of my ‘Sorrento’. Can’t wait for tomorrow.
Saturday, August 30, 2008
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Last Day in Rome
Hop on Hop off Bus – Last Day – Monday May 12/08
The sun has gone down on our idyllic, sunny week, in historic Rome. Cloud showers loomed over our head as we stepped quickly toward the bus stop Today, we’ve bowed to exhaustion, headed for St. Peters to catch the hop on hop off bus offered by Roma Cristiana.
From the comfort of a spacious bus, butt settled in a comfy leather seat, we head out on the route covered by Line A. Our ticket cost $16 Euro per adult; admission covers two lines and 36 stops. A good deal compared to the other open bus companies.
As we passed Castel Sant’Angelo, the female voice over PA faded in and out, once or twice. Who cared! I was finally sitting down.
Number ten on the list, Santa Maria Maggoire, was our first departure. From the window, the backside of this vast basilica was in full view - the bus stopped that close. All we had to do was cross the street and we were there. Of course, crossing the street is never that easy, or safe. Stopping to curse the driver of scooter that almost winged me, just before my foot made contact with the sidewalk. Stashing our umbrella in the backpack we toured this ancient structure that is one of the four major Basilicas in Rome.
The cloudy weather was working for us at our next sight, Bocca della Verità. The line up to stick your hand in the Mouth of Truth, like Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday, was contained to the Portico of the ancient Santa Maria Cosmedin- we had those all important photos in less than half an hour and back out on the streets to catch the next Roma Cristiana bus to come rolling by. (Usually on time-but just).
We picked up Line B after lunch in a small pizzeria. It was our third time back to the same place. The grilled panini’s were crisp, smothered in cheese, and the coffee was good Getting off at Trastevere we stumbled through the tiny back alleys of Trastevere in search of a Piazza Santa Maria Trastevere. We spotted a local police, begged for directions, embarrassed to discover it just up the street. . Once you arriver you can’t miss what our guidebook calls “Rome’s oldest church”. I also have to agree with the guidebook’s judgment that the church’s Byzentine mosaics are worth the bus trip.
Wandering back over half-remembered back alleys, still desperate to find a sign, we finally arrived at the Roma Cristiana’s stop. We waited, a couple minutes longer than the advertised 30 minutes (probably just the bumper to bumper traffic). The sun had come out, and we managed to find seats in the breezy upper deck, and stayed there until the bus returned to St Peters.
After an early dinner we headed back to Piazza Navona. We wandered slowly. Savoring every glance we took. I starred longingly at the familiar baroque churches, whose grandeur was burned forever in my memory. I loved each second in those peaceful church, decorated by artists long dead, but never forgotten; whose doors were long since locked tightly. No last peek today. Reaching the final sight of my now much cherished ‘evening passeggiata’, Trevi Fountain. I tossed in my coin, glanced around, rushed to claim that empty seat. We could enjoy our final gelato in comfort. My favorite is a black forest cake connection that tastes like heaven (can’t remember the name), but leaves my fingers covered in a sticky mess. Ahh Rome….I miss this grand city already, and it’s been just over two weeks.
The sun has gone down on our idyllic, sunny week, in historic Rome. Cloud showers loomed over our head as we stepped quickly toward the bus stop Today, we’ve bowed to exhaustion, headed for St. Peters to catch the hop on hop off bus offered by Roma Cristiana.
From the comfort of a spacious bus, butt settled in a comfy leather seat, we head out on the route covered by Line A. Our ticket cost $16 Euro per adult; admission covers two lines and 36 stops. A good deal compared to the other open bus companies.
As we passed Castel Sant’Angelo, the female voice over PA faded in and out, once or twice. Who cared! I was finally sitting down.
Number ten on the list, Santa Maria Maggoire, was our first departure. From the window, the backside of this vast basilica was in full view - the bus stopped that close. All we had to do was cross the street and we were there. Of course, crossing the street is never that easy, or safe. Stopping to curse the driver of scooter that almost winged me, just before my foot made contact with the sidewalk. Stashing our umbrella in the backpack we toured this ancient structure that is one of the four major Basilicas in Rome.
The cloudy weather was working for us at our next sight, Bocca della Verità. The line up to stick your hand in the Mouth of Truth, like Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday, was contained to the Portico of the ancient Santa Maria Cosmedin- we had those all important photos in less than half an hour and back out on the streets to catch the next Roma Cristiana bus to come rolling by. (Usually on time-but just).
We picked up Line B after lunch in a small pizzeria. It was our third time back to the same place. The grilled panini’s were crisp, smothered in cheese, and the coffee was good Getting off at Trastevere we stumbled through the tiny back alleys of Trastevere in search of a Piazza Santa Maria Trastevere. We spotted a local police, begged for directions, embarrassed to discover it just up the street. . Once you arriver you can’t miss what our guidebook calls “Rome’s oldest church”. I also have to agree with the guidebook’s judgment that the church’s Byzentine mosaics are worth the bus trip.
Wandering back over half-remembered back alleys, still desperate to find a sign, we finally arrived at the Roma Cristiana’s stop. We waited, a couple minutes longer than the advertised 30 minutes (probably just the bumper to bumper traffic). The sun had come out, and we managed to find seats in the breezy upper deck, and stayed there until the bus returned to St Peters.
After an early dinner we headed back to Piazza Navona. We wandered slowly. Savoring every glance we took. I starred longingly at the familiar baroque churches, whose grandeur was burned forever in my memory. I loved each second in those peaceful church, decorated by artists long dead, but never forgotten; whose doors were long since locked tightly. No last peek today. Reaching the final sight of my now much cherished ‘evening passeggiata’, Trevi Fountain. I tossed in my coin, glanced around, rushed to claim that empty seat. We could enjoy our final gelato in comfort. My favorite is a black forest cake connection that tastes like heaven (can’t remember the name), but leaves my fingers covered in a sticky mess. Ahh Rome….I miss this grand city already, and it’s been just over two weeks.
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
The Underside of Rome
Crypts & Catacombs Tour – Sunday May 11/08
Our group tour that included a guided tour of the multi-layered Basilica San Clemente, the Bone Chapel at Capuchin Crypt, and Domitilla Catacombs was scheduled for the afternoon. I didn’t want to waste the morning, and we headed out to check out sites around Quirinal area: Piazza Barberini and Piazza Republicca.
We took the metro to Piazza Republicca. Piazza Bernando was just up the street from this bustling piazza. We easily spotted Fontana dell'Acqua Felice ("Moses Fountain"), but most of this elaborate statue had been barred by a fencelike structure. Don’t know why? The small square is a church lovers paradise: after mass we managed to peek into Church of San Bernado, Santa Susana and Bernini’s Ecstasy of St. Theresa at Santa Maria della Vittoria.
Feeling hungry we headed for Piazza della Repubblica. We enjoyed a quick lunch at an outside café that provided a fabulous view of the scandalous Fountain of the Naiads. The wonderful façades on the building that surround this fountain are a treat to the eye like the gelato we had enjoyed after pizza. Eager to move on, we headed over to see Santa Maria degli Angeli. The basilica looks like a ruin on the outside, but you will gasp in amazement at the stunning marble used liberally in this grand church. We barely had time to grab a photo the Baths of Diocletain before hopping on the metro back to Piazza Barberini.
outside of Santa Maria degli Angeli
Our tour met at the Fontana del Tritone in the middle of the piazza. Our three-hour tour also included transportation to the Catacombs. The tour had one highlight but many disappointments. Capuchin Crypt was interesting but we couldn’t get a photo. Domitilla Catacombs was not worth the twenty- minute tour. At our final sight, Basilica San Clemente our guide was the only high point of the tour. His lectures were entertaining but filled with fascinating historical facts.
We headed home by bus, still intrigued by the historical layers of San Clemente, and fighting those feelings of disappointment. Every holiday has its disappointment.
The fragment aroma of Italian bacon welcomed us at the door. My in-laws had shopped at our local butcher the day before, a lot of stores are closed on Sunday, had prepared a feast for supper– a British breakfast.
A Walk in Borghese Park
A Walk in Borghese Park - Saturday May 10/08
Sunglasses tucked into my shirt we grabbed the metro/bus to the Piazza del Popolo. This has to be my favorite Piazza. The name is modern Italian literally means Piazza for the People. Even if you’re not a Dan Brown fan you should see Santa Maria Del Popolo. The twin churches may be less flamboyant, but well worth a peek. There is even a museum dedicated to Leonardo da Vinci.
The Piazza lies inside the northern gate in the Aurelian Walls, on the other side of Porta del Popolo you can see a portion of the old wall. Leaving the piazza, we headed up the staircase to admire the views from Pincian Hill, and then into the Park.
Villa Borghese Park is massive, with separate pathways for bikers and walkers. I had hoped to enjoy a leisurely stroll to the lake, snap some evocative photos and relax on a nearby bench, but no such luck. We couldn’t find a map of the park, and missed our turn-off because of construction. Oddly enough, we enjoyed our best lunch of the trip, at Café del Parco in the Zoo. Hope renewed we finally picked up a map, found the lake and eventually grabbed the metro back to the apartment, in time to pick up Alan’s parents.
We shared the pleasures of ‘our evening passeggiata’ with family, and snapped a photo of my mother-in-law throwing a coin in Trevi Fountain. Settled in for coffee at a gelato joint across front of the famous fountain, and headed back to the Pantheon for our birthday celebration.
L'Eau Vive, a French restaurant, is situated halfway between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona. The restaurant is run by a lay sisterhood of missionary Christians, from five continents.
I ordered Steak marinated in Cognac and puffed potatoes that melted in your mouth. The nuns have been impressively trained. Diners have the luxury of eating under the impressive ceiling frescoes on the 2nd floor of this palazzo. After 10:00pm the nuns lay down their serving gear and sing for the guests. The proceeds of your dinner go to charity; with food so delicious it is easy to be charitable.
On the outside, the restaurant looks like a hundred others, but inside the experience is well worth the effort it takes to find it. Enjoy.
Saturday, May 24, 2008
Day trip to Pompei from Rome
Shuttle Bus to Pompei: Friday May 9/08
We managed a quick breakfast, and slipped into our light jackets before heading out to the street to flag a taxi. The sun was shinning, but it was just after 6:15am; we knew the air would still be chilly.
We arrived at the Enjoy Rome’s office before 7:15 (the appointed meet time). I was surprised to spot more than 23 people taking our tour. The bus was huge. Plenty of room to stare out the windows at the countryside
The bus didn’t leave till 7:45, but the traffic moved swiftly. To fill time our guide gave us a condensed version of the Pompei eruption, and commented on local sights whipping by our nose pressed up against the window. An agreeable way to fill a three-hour journey (we stopped halfway for a bathroom break)
The bus arrived at Pompei at 11:00, just as advertised in the brochure. We were reminded to be at the bus stop by 3:00, and let loose to explore. Our tour included transportation only, arranging a guide at the sight and entrance fees were to come out of our pockets. No sweat, the tour was still the best bargain for a day trip to Pompeii - the cost of a train ticket to Pompei from Rome cost $20 Euro more per person.
My in-laws had limited mobility we decided to explore the ruins on our own. Grabbing an early lunch, at the cafeteria/ restaurant just past the Forum, we parted ways.
Early in our exploring, we realized our huge mistake. Hiring a guide at the entrance is essential, in my opinion. There are no streets signs on the buildings, or anywhere else, so we were left to wander, aimlessly uncertain, in an area that spanned a couple miles. Not a great feeling.
We managed a quick breakfast, and slipped into our light jackets before heading out to the street to flag a taxi. The sun was shinning, but it was just after 6:15am; we knew the air would still be chilly.
We arrived at the Enjoy Rome’s office before 7:15 (the appointed meet time). I was surprised to spot more than 23 people taking our tour. The bus was huge. Plenty of room to stare out the windows at the countryside
The bus didn’t leave till 7:45, but the traffic moved swiftly. To fill time our guide gave us a condensed version of the Pompei eruption, and commented on local sights whipping by our nose pressed up against the window. An agreeable way to fill a three-hour journey (we stopped halfway for a bathroom break)
The bus arrived at Pompei at 11:00, just as advertised in the brochure. We were reminded to be at the bus stop by 3:00, and let loose to explore. Our tour included transportation only, arranging a guide at the sight and entrance fees were to come out of our pockets. No sweat, the tour was still the best bargain for a day trip to Pompeii - the cost of a train ticket to Pompei from Rome cost $20 Euro more per person.
My in-laws had limited mobility we decided to explore the ruins on our own. Grabbing an early lunch, at the cafeteria/ restaurant just past the Forum, we parted ways.
Early in our exploring, we realized our huge mistake. Hiring a guide at the entrance is essential, in my opinion. There are no streets signs on the buildings, or anywhere else, so we were left to wander, aimlessly uncertain, in an area that spanned a couple miles. Not a great feeling.
We made a beeline for the Villa of Mysteries, gapped in amazement at the brilliant red frescoes that suffered little damage. Although the subject of the frescoes is hotly debated, the most common interpretation of the images is scenes of the initiation of a woman into a special cult of Dionysus, a mystery cult that required specific rites and rituals to become a member. With our photos safely stored we headed back to the main area of Pompei.
Wandering the cobblestone streets that had been buried under ash for nearly 2000 years we had a good laugh when we met fellow passengers looking just as confused. Stopped to chat with an interesting couple touring Europe for three months, and exchanged direction to the next house we hoped to find: House of Faun (a disappointment because the frescoes had been removed)
The traffic back to Rome was better than we expected, and we arrived back at before 7:00pm. Tired of piazza we grabbed a burger at MacDonalds at Termini station, flagged a taxi after the short break, and headed home exhausted.
Final thoughts: Avoid our mistake. Just pay for a guide. Why waste precious, holiday hours, hopelessly confused!
Wandering the cobblestone streets that had been buried under ash for nearly 2000 years we had a good laugh when we met fellow passengers looking just as confused. Stopped to chat with an interesting couple touring Europe for three months, and exchanged direction to the next house we hoped to find: House of Faun (a disappointment because the frescoes had been removed)
The traffic back to Rome was better than we expected, and we arrived back at before 7:00pm. Tired of piazza we grabbed a burger at MacDonalds at Termini station, flagged a taxi after the short break, and headed home exhausted.
Final thoughts: Avoid our mistake. Just pay for a guide. Why waste precious, holiday hours, hopelessly confused!
Vatican and Historical Centre - Thur May 8/08
Vatican and Historical Centre – Thursday May 8/08
Another sunny day, and another layer of burned skin I fear. On the bright side, my father-in-law was eager to see St. Peters Basilica. Today we grabbed Bus #982 (according to our handy transit map) from just around the corner of our apartment, to Piazza Risorgimento
Even from the outside St. Peters is huge, and the line-up, although long, moved swiftly. The first part of the Basilica is more like a museum, we shuffled along in single file, admiring books under glass, statues, and so much more, while all appropriately silent – there are tombs here It wasn’t till we moved into the actual Basilica that I was hit with an explosion of excitement. I was finally here.
The sheer sight of the church can be overwhelming to absorb; I prefer small structures. Still the history of this place will make anyone gaze in appreciation and amazement.
Leaving the St. Peters, which is well worth a visit, we headed up the street to check out Castel Sant’Angelo The Castle is a great place to wander through – so peaceful. I was thrilled to be finally posing on Ponte Sant’Angelo. In the seventh century, both the castle and the bridge took on the name Sant'Angelo, explained by a legend that an angel appeared on the roof of the castle to announce the end of the plague. Word of warning, this place is not for those with the mobility problems. The ramp from the first level is a steep incline.
Heading back to the apartment we grabbed a light lunch from the pizzaria across the street and while the rest of the group napped, I filled out postcards on our sunny balcony just off the kitchen of our apartment.
My inlaws were bushed so we headed out for a stroll through the great Piazzas: Piazza Navona, Pantheon and, of course, Trevi Fountain.
This area is jammed with grand churches. Our bus let off in front of Chiesa Nuova,; the grandeur of the outside façade literally stole my breath the first time I laid eyes on it. The church is considered a small attraction because the competition is so stiff.
After wandering through Piazza Navona we checked out the two churches that line the area, including the massive Sant’Agnese in Agnone. Moving on we popped into the Pantheon, and for the highlight, wandered over to see Sant’ Ignazio di Loyola, and stared in amazement at the ceiling.
Another sunny day, and another layer of burned skin I fear. On the bright side, my father-in-law was eager to see St. Peters Basilica. Today we grabbed Bus #982 (according to our handy transit map) from just around the corner of our apartment, to Piazza Risorgimento
Even from the outside St. Peters is huge, and the line-up, although long, moved swiftly. The first part of the Basilica is more like a museum, we shuffled along in single file, admiring books under glass, statues, and so much more, while all appropriately silent – there are tombs here It wasn’t till we moved into the actual Basilica that I was hit with an explosion of excitement. I was finally here.
The sheer sight of the church can be overwhelming to absorb; I prefer small structures. Still the history of this place will make anyone gaze in appreciation and amazement.
Leaving the St. Peters, which is well worth a visit, we headed up the street to check out Castel Sant’Angelo The Castle is a great place to wander through – so peaceful. I was thrilled to be finally posing on Ponte Sant’Angelo. In the seventh century, both the castle and the bridge took on the name Sant'Angelo, explained by a legend that an angel appeared on the roof of the castle to announce the end of the plague. Word of warning, this place is not for those with the mobility problems. The ramp from the first level is a steep incline.
Heading back to the apartment we grabbed a light lunch from the pizzaria across the street and while the rest of the group napped, I filled out postcards on our sunny balcony just off the kitchen of our apartment.
My inlaws were bushed so we headed out for a stroll through the great Piazzas: Piazza Navona, Pantheon and, of course, Trevi Fountain.
This area is jammed with grand churches. Our bus let off in front of Chiesa Nuova,; the grandeur of the outside façade literally stole my breath the first time I laid eyes on it. The church is considered a small attraction because the competition is so stiff.
After wandering through Piazza Navona we checked out the two churches that line the area, including the massive Sant’Agnese in Agnone. Moving on we popped into the Pantheon, and for the highlight, wandered over to see Sant’ Ignazio di Loyola, and stared in amazement at the ceiling.
Before heading to Trevi Fountains, for our nightly gelato, we booked our celebration dinner at L'Eau Vive. The restaurant offers fine French cuisine served by a lay sisterhood of missionary Christians from five continents who dress in traditional costumes.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Ancient Rome Tour – Wednesday May 7/08
We woke up at 6:00 am to sunny weather, but when we stepped into our galley kitchen to light the stove for coffee the problems started. My father-in-law stumbled into the doorway of the kitchen, face pale as ashes, and reported a tummy bug. Close by, my mother-in-law looking just as exhausted, begged us to continue on with our holiday plans. I hated to leave - but had no choice - our Ancient Rome tour had been pre-booked with Presto Tours months ago.
Still not certain about the metro system, our tour was to meet outside the Colosseum Metro stop, we grabbed the bus to Piazza Venezia. We just missed an earlier Bus #916, and my hopeful plans to fit in Santa Maria in Aracoelia, an ancient church known for a miracle, was enroute to the Colosseum. It is said that the statue of the baby Jesus, carved from a tree trunk from the garden of Gethsemane, has miraculous powers, was stolen and never recovered. What a shame.
Some people argue that Rome has over 900 churches. I was never going to see them all, and shrugged off feelings of regret. Sucking up some courage we made a wild dash across the bumper-to-bumper traffic circling the Piazza. We had no trouble finding the meeting place. Presto Tours had included a picture of the meeting place, the lion fountain on the wall of the Metro. Smart thinking.
We woke up at 6:00 am to sunny weather, but when we stepped into our galley kitchen to light the stove for coffee the problems started. My father-in-law stumbled into the doorway of the kitchen, face pale as ashes, and reported a tummy bug. Close by, my mother-in-law looking just as exhausted, begged us to continue on with our holiday plans. I hated to leave - but had no choice - our Ancient Rome tour had been pre-booked with Presto Tours months ago.
Still not certain about the metro system, our tour was to meet outside the Colosseum Metro stop, we grabbed the bus to Piazza Venezia. We just missed an earlier Bus #916, and my hopeful plans to fit in Santa Maria in Aracoelia, an ancient church known for a miracle, was enroute to the Colosseum. It is said that the statue of the baby Jesus, carved from a tree trunk from the garden of Gethsemane, has miraculous powers, was stolen and never recovered. What a shame.
Some people argue that Rome has over 900 churches. I was never going to see them all, and shrugged off feelings of regret. Sucking up some courage we made a wild dash across the bumper-to-bumper traffic circling the Piazza. We had no trouble finding the meeting place. Presto Tours had included a picture of the meeting place, the lion fountain on the wall of the Metro. Smart thinking.
Value for money, our t
our offered a guided tour of three sights: Roman Forum, Palatine Hill and Colosseum and the condensed version of the history of Circus Maximus. The guide did her job, but I didn’t get the impression she was a people person. Didn’t smile until she reached our final sight, the Colosseum. The info she offered at the Roman Forum was brilliant, but she repeated herself at Colosseum several times. Leaving the Colosseum I couldn’t believe the words dropping off my lips. I’m too tired to go to Augustus House, honey, let’s get lunch. This is the same sight that I swore never to leave Rome until viewing. Funny, how plans change. 
We stopped for lunch at the Pizza Subway Colosseum, located across the street from the amphitheatre. Two paninis and drinks cost us $22 Euro. Not bad, for a chance to sit and gawk at an ancient monument. Dragging our tired feet past Piazza Campidoglio we made a quick detour. Even from the grand stairs no one can resist this magnificent square designed by Michelangelo.
After a quick dinner we paid our shuttle tour to Pompeii at the tour office of Enjoy Rome. We bypassed on the buses and splurged for a taxi back to the apartment.
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